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The Old Patagonian Express: By Train Through the Americas, by Paul Theroux
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About the Author
PAUL THEROUX is the author of many highly acclaimed books. His novels include The Lower River and The Mosquito Coast, and his renowned travel books include Ghost Train to the Eastern Star and Dark Star Safari. He lives in Hawaii and Cape Cod.
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Product details
Paperback: 404 pages
Publisher: Mariner Books; Reissue edition (November 7, 1989)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 9780395521052
ISBN-13: 978-0395521052
ASIN: 039552105X
Product Dimensions:
5.5 x 1.1 x 8.2 inches
Shipping Weight: 15.2 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
3.9 out of 5 stars
82 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#562,652 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
The cranky Paul Theroux may be an acquired taste, but my mom and I both shared a love of travel and the writings of Theroux. I am not sure if this is my favorite of his travel journals, but I think it may be a top contender. Theroux, who lives on Cape Cod, decided he could take a train out of Boston and end up in Patagonia--the utter end of the earth, the tip of South America where Chile and Argentina meet at the point of the continent.Part of the charm of the book are the quick, sharp sketches of people Theroux meets on the way (not usually favorable) and the musings on the essence of the land he is traversing--its geography, its mood as well as the general condition of the local economy. Central America is phenomenally empoverished, down to the Stone Age level of heaps of huts and a few stray animals. His unvarnished view of the pitiable condition of these lands and their people gives you a better feeling for what life is like outside a developed nation, even Mexico, whose slums are posh compared to Nicaragua or Guatemala.South America is not well known by Americans--did you know there is a Welsh settlement in Patagonia? It's amazing to take this train trip even with such a grouchy companion as Theroux. He's a marvelous writer and like all good journal writers, doesn't spare anything, even if it makes himself look less noble.I read this before I ever traveled to Chile and then after and it really adds a lot of insight.
The book is very entertaining. But Theroux's attitude towards the people he meets along the way gradually becomes irritating. He pours scorn on the typical time-constrained tourists, for their seeming disregard for the locals and for their exclusive focus on the famous hotspots (these bring his assumptions). On the other hand, the long term travelers of the backpacking sort invite his contempt in other ways; he ridicules their seeming obsession with frugality and -again - the disinterest in interacting with the locals. All in all, it seems that of all the myriad travelers in South America, he alone has noble motives and the correct way to travel. Contrary to other commenters here, I didn't sense any humility. There is some self-criticism here and there, but I get the feeling that they are mostly for effect and to charm the reader.
Yes, he is a curmudgeon - but I still love his books.This one in particular fed into my wish to " someday" travel. I was a poor student who thought travel was only for the rich. I didn't realize you could do it cheaply - if you don't mind a few discomforts. It gave the information I needed to take journeys that expanded my world view.The book reads like a diary of his travel from Boston to Tierra del Fuego, most of the time by train. Along the way he meets both ordinary & famous people - most of whom he dislikes. At the beginning of his train trip he meets a self-centered young woman who gives him a rundown of her dietary needs and "sensitivities." She is a the first of many people who will annoy and confound him. He also manages to meet luminaries like Jorge Luis Borges. Even Borges doesn't distract him from train" schedules", breakdowns, people, and misunderstanding that - he thinks - exist only to thwart his enjoyment. He hates everyone and everything but manages to describe it all in hilarious prose.I know many people dislike his grouchy persona - they wonder why he even travels. Give him a break - he is like one of those old - fashioned uncles (at least in literature) who fill your head with wonderful images of far away places while complaining about the most trivial problems. You know he's finicky, so all you take in is the wonder of discovering new places.I will always love this book and Mr. Theroux for leading me out of small, Midwestern-town-USA. How else would I have found myself hitching a ride to Otoval market (ECUADOR) on top of a precarious truck carrying vegetables & chickens? Two Japanese sisters made the trip even more fun as we screamed & laughed all the way. A trip of a lifetime on a shoe string budget. Luckily I was young enough to ignore discomfort so that I could enjoy new vistas and people.I will always keep my worn copy of this book. I give it 5 stars for inspiration, hilarity, and practical advice.
Paul Theroux has a bitter impatience with the poverty and hardships he sees imposed (by dictators and ignorance) on people whose lives he travels through. He has a witty impatience with loud tourist louts. But he has a generous heart that he tries to keep under wraps, like the night he ran across 3 homeless boys in an alley and talked to them to hear their stories and gave them money to eat and told us, the readers, he knew they wouldnt survive. A true trip, glad to tag along in complacent safety while he faces our reality.
It's not his best work by my tastes but it is Paul Theroux's only account of traveling through North and South America. It has all the challenges of a travelogue written in the late 70s such as disparaging remarks about people of colour, endless commentary on the dilapidation of non western cities and towns but the character studies are there of the people he meets on trains and the delight is his description of time spent with Borges. It's a worthwhile read for armchair travellers eager to experience the Americas.
I enjoyed the Dark Star Safari with Paul very much and carried that level of expectation with me on this trip through the Americas.It was an unfair comparison because of Paul's history with Africa his insights there were based upon his Peace Corps experiences there.The trip through the Americas seemed to be a struggle for Paul and didn't have the historical awareness and intimate connection with the areas covered so the depth that I was hoping for was lacking.
Even though the events in this book are somewhat dated, I enjoyed reading it for the second time, motivated by my recent personal travels through Patagonia. For anyone interested in any aspect of South American history, this is a must-read.
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